Monday, May 25, 2009

Navigating through...

Received some cool news today: I've been accepted into the LEAD Fellowship program. It's a secular international program to develop leaders in the realms of environmental, social and economic sustainability. I'm looking forward to the stretching and training that I'll get from participating in this program over the next 18 months! It culminates in an international conference in South Africa next year, which will hopefully coincide with several other meetings and gatherings in that part of the world at the same time.

Friday, May 22, 2009

China IX

I can say this now, as I am no longer there, but China is not a communist country.
I have mentioned before the staggering economic discrepancies here. That is not a communist ideal. Nor is the lack of taxation of all except for the very rich, the lack of medical care, the lack of job security, nor the lack of communal provision one for the other. No equity in education or in gender relations. No equity between people groups. No equity in religious beliefs.
It is a markedly more capitalist society than, dare I say, even America. If you are left behind, there is no social safety net to catch you. If you make it, with your guanxi, then good for you! If you don't, well, that's just too bad for you, you and your family will not catch up for generations...
Now, I'm not saying that this is necessarily a bad thing, per se, but to pretend that the country runs under communist ideals and rule is a joke. If, in the pursuit of wealth and gain, many are left behind, then to pretend that the nation works under communist ideals should be left behind. It would likely be more honest to say that it is not the People's Republic of China, which implies communist, democratic ideas, but should find some name that would better reflect it's capitalistic, intensely centralized power structures instead...
I'm sorry if these few posts seem rather incoherent, but after being in transit for 25 hours, and being terribly jet-lagged, I suppose they are not as erudite as they could be...

China VIII

Traffic rules are illusory, at best, in China. Similarly to many other countries in the Global South, lane markings are optional, as are traffic lights. Speed limits are variable, depending on who's driving. Crossing the street becomes a bit like Frogger. One difference that I have noted, though, is the relative smoothness that this all occurs in. One friend mentioned it is the Taoist qi concept, of balancing pulling and pushing, flowing and going. Which is true: here, while crossing multiple lanes on a highway, you really aren't putting your life into your hands, as the vehicles will give way, instead of trying to run you down in many other countries. There is a hierarchy of who moves into empty spaces first, and vehicles and people defer to that hierarchy, instead of complete anarchy that I've seen in many other contexts. There is order in this disorder...

China VII

The one and only meal I had helped to cook in China was actually chicken and dumplings. I had insisted that we should get fresh chicken, as I'm a bit concerned about buying meat lying out on a room temperature counter all day. So, off to the market we went, and selected a squawking, feathery chicken. I got to watch the whole killing and de-feathering of the whole animal, which was very intrinsically interesting to me. We had requested that they gut the animal as well, and it did seem that the butcher removed some of the internal organs. Much to my chagrin, when we got home, I noticed, oh, intestines and gall bladders and lungs in the chicken. Seems like they removed nothing from the chicken innards at all.
Which is where I got involved in the dinner making process, which basically was to eviscerate the chicken by hand. I suppose I got this job by default since it was I who insisted on a fresh, live chicken for dinner, and since my line of work makes me less queasy about manipulating internal organs. Thank goodness for anatomy class! So I had to cut out all of the abdominal organs, and then the thoracic ones. Cut the aorta along the way, so the heart started spilling blood over all the pleural viscera, which was no good. At any rate, I got her relatively cleaned up, and then we boiled her up and ate her.

China VI

Pandas, though incredibly adorable, have no good reason as to why they have still managed to survive and not go completely extinct. If it wasn't for their extreme cuteness, I think they likely would've disappeared a while ago, as humanity just wouldn't have had the interest in saving a non-cute species.
Seriously; their mating rituals are appalling and have a poor success rate, and the very fact that pandas reproduce at all is a small miracle - most pandas today are conceived through artificial insemination. They are born prematurely, without ears, eyes or fur. They count on their mothers for caring for them for the first few months they have no eyes or ears. However, first time mothers are usually so surprised that this thing comes out of them (as they never realize that they are pregnant), they will sit on it, eat it, or bat it around until it dies.
Furthermore, though they are designed to be carnivorous (and, in fact, they sometimes will eat carrion if it's available, or their babies), they have decided that they are only able to eat a few specific species of bamboo. And, of all the bamboo that they eat, they only extract 7% of the nutritional content of the bamboo, so they need to eat kilograms of the stuff in order to get enough nourishment for the day.
So, they can't procreate, they can't gestate, they don't have maternal instincts, they don't eat efficiently... but they are so darn cute, you just want to hug one...

China V (interrupted, of course, by Big Brother)

Well, courtesy of the Great Firewall, I wasn't able to access my blog for the rest of my time in China, and, as I have just arrived back in Canada again (the True North strong and free), I will finish up my postings from here - a bit less authentic, as I am no longer in the actual country, but hey...
I believe I have discussed the issue of the insidiousness of Coca-Cola branding globally. China is no different. Here, Coca-Cola has been translated to "Ke Kou Ke La", which literally means: "suitable for the mouth, suitable for pleasure". It's a whole different ball game out here when the transliteration of your global brand actually sells itself!

Thursday, May 07, 2009

China IV

I'm finding it difficult to write about China, in that I feel whatever I have to say has already been said, by many other people many other times.
However, one thing that has struck me is the sheer economic disparity in this country. I am not sure if people have already likened it to the social disparity that occurred in England during the Industrial Revolution, but the differences between the haves and the have-nots are staggering.
I have learned that the real estate moguls here, building skyscraper after skyscraper, and industrial developments galore, pay their construction workers, who are mainly migrant workers from rural settings, the equivalent of $7 CDN daily. Let me tell you; China may be a cheap country to live in, but it's not that cheap. This is also in a country that has no workers' compensation, no medical benefits, no disability insurance and no retirement pensions. I have seen grandmothers begging on the streets, presumably because they have no family to care for them, and are too old to work. I have seen construction workers come into very close calls with potential work accidents. I have seen pretty young things walking by them, in their flashy clothes, and holding cell phones that are worth two months' salary to those migrant workers.
Now, I am no student of history, but obviously change came about in the UK at the time, noting how many, many people were being left behind, while a select few were fabulously wealthy. I do hope that such change will occur here; I am not saying that we are any better in caring for our poor, but here, the poor break their backs and work in hard, hard labour in order to buy food for the day.
I suppose the paradox in saying this is that we in the West must realize how much our consumption patterns reinforce this cycle. The reason why people get paid so shitty here is because labour is cheap; dirt cheap. Which, of course, is why the products that we buy at home made here are so cheap. The competition to reach the very bottom in who can pay the lowest wages in order to cut costs here is partly our fault, to be honest. I can't help but walk through these streets and realize how much of what we do at home is preventing many people from reaching their full potential. The very small value that this culture places on individual lives is our mea culpa as well...
On a completely related note, I have also been trying to look for gifts to bring people back at home. As some of you know, my usual dilemma when I travel abroad is to buy items that are authentically made in the country that I'm visiting. The dilemma being that most souvenir-type items are made in China, no matter where in the world you are. Now that I'm here, where -everything- is made, I am finding that there is nothing here that I cannot find everywhere else in the world. All the Chinoiserie and kitsch that is found in these streets can easily be bought in any store in Toronto, for almost the same price. I am starting to think of ways to support the local economy in a viable way, and not just spend money on stupid, pointless trash...

China III

Traveling around in China isn't nearly as bad as I thought it was going to be - in the past few days, I've ridden trains, subways, taxis, buses and my own two feet to get around, and it hasn't been too bad at all - admittedly, part of it is the relative invisibility that I have here.
I must say that I am truly stunned by the rate of development here. One ex-pat told me that the national bird of China is the crane (ba-dum ching!). One lady I was staying with lives out in the suburbs of a small city (of only five million people!), and her entire neighbourhood is made up of super high-rises! The entire area is made up of condominium-type buildings - much like CitiPark, but for many square kilometres around.
That being said, there are some notable differences where I think they have performed better than we, in terms of urban planning. Firstly, they have very narrow, similar buildings, such that there is aesthetic congruence between buildings, and that every suite gets windows that face out of both sides of the building. I think that is great - each apartment gets a balcony out of both ends. Furthermore, they have designed these high-rises with a good mix of retail and residential, along with parks and schools as well. Wandering around in the evening, there were many (only) children playing in the courtyards around the high-rises. Lastly, they have a very extensive and frequent public transit service to help people get to the core of the city (at only $0.35 CDN a ride!).
I suppose when you're talking about "small" cities of 5 million people, you have to be organized in order to house them and move them about.

Sunday, May 03, 2009

China II

It's a bit odd, in that I haven't really yet felt that I'm "in" China. In many ways, I feel like I'm running around a very, very, very large Chinatown, that just happens to have its own subway system running through it. There are enough ex-pats around to help confirm that feeling as well.
Wandering around the streets of Shanghai, I noticed the oddity of being completely ignored as a tourist. In some ways, the advantage of being relatively invisible allows me to watch people more easily. While wandering around yesterday, even with an English tourbook in hand, people mainly ignored me, with the occasional person talking to me about... something, which I wouldn't understand. It was also odd in that all the tourists and ex-pats also fully ignored me, assuming that I was one of 'them'.
I am struck by the cultural divide between the ex-pat community and the native community here. I stopped off for a break at a Western-style coffee shop, and noted that I was the only non-Caucasian person, besides the service staff, in the room. This was noted even more strongly when the barista started to take my order in Mandarin, and I just looked at her blankly. Sigh.
The same thing goes for church here; at the beginning of service for the internationals, there is an announcement to make clear that you are only allowed to stay if you hold a foreign passport, and all others are politely asked to leave, though they are welcome to any of the 'official' Chinese services. I think service this week was a welcome balm to the soul; it was encouraging to see the little church packed to the rafters with a completely multi-ethnic group of people, from over 60 nations of the earth, all worshipping God in the most unlikely of places. I haven't been so spiritually and emotionally moved by a service in a very, very long time.
In addition, we had gone to an 'all you can eat' dim sum restaurant, and guess what? They ran out of dim sum! We didn't get any hak gow, siu mai, egg tarts, nothing! Everything we ordered, they said they had run out, or were running out. At one point, they even told us the chef was leaving! What we found infuriating was that, knowing that they were closing down the kitchen soon, they still sat us at table, and didn't tell us the kitchen was closing till after they had brought out some dishes! I seemed to gather that customer service isn't exactly a strong point in China yet, as they didn't seem to find a problem in still charging us full price for the meal.

Friday, May 01, 2009

China I

Some of you are well aware of the horror show that was involved in actually getting here, and how, by the end of it all, my heart was just plain not into coming. Furthermore, with very current events in my life, deep guilt about leaving the country at this particular moment in time was also combined with all of the above. So, it was not with an easy, free heart that I was leaving.
However, off to Pearson I went anyways. Not two minutes after being dropped off, I found out that my flight was being delayed by two hours. D'oh! Next, I arrived at the ticket counter to find out that I was being placed on standby, and they couldn't guarantee that I would be able to get on my already-delayed flight. Nor could they explain why my reserved seat had magically disappeared from their computer system. Heading through the security system, I was actually taken out of the line, selected "at random" for a body search, which, I suppose, did waste some of the time that I had to kill, waiting for my flight. It was not boding well at all. By the time I arrived at the gate, the departure time had been pushed back yet another hour, thus leaving me to stew at Terminal 1.
To me, by this point, because of everything else that had happened while preparing to go on this trip, I was really feeling that really, I wasn't meant to go, and I had really not been paying close enough attention all the way along. And I sat and prayed, "God, if you sincerely want me to go home and deal with the acute issue that I'm leaving, just let Air Canada reimburse me, and I'll go home." People who were hearing about my ordeal just to get to the gate, and who were aware of everything else that had happened, were at the ready, waiting for the call to come to Pearson and get me.
However, God sent a few angels along, and, through Providence herself, I ended up in First Class ('werd to the two angels), and also was connected safely through customs and into the city by another few angels as well.
It's funny how that happens. It does make me wonder at the grace of God, or, perhaps, how His will works. Because until He sent them along, I was fairly convinced I was not supposed to be here, in this country, at this point in time in my life. And perhaps I am still not. However, I am thankful for the small graces He provides to show that He does know that I am here, and that He will open His hand, when we are not sure where to turn...