Well, this isn't really a border crossing, but a few last notes:
Jordanian elections occurred, and it seemed that most parliamentarians that were elected were sympathetic and loyal to the king, rather than the Muslim Brotherhood, and other fundamentalist Muslims. Long live the king!
It looks like they -may- have a candidate to stand for president in Lebanon, if Hezbollah and its allies agree. Hopefully this will all work out. Hopefully, conversely, General Suleiman would actually be a good man, not a strongman; this will be hard to know in advance, as he has been an army man all his life.
While driving out to the airport (this is the "border crossings" bit), the cabbie actually took me through a Palestinian refugee camp, and some of the Hezbollah stronghold neighbourhoods in Beirut, that still have noticeable damage due to the bombing by the Israelis. He told me that Sayyed Hassan Nasrallah used to live "above ground" until last year's war, and now his living quarters are under street level. Nice. Frankly, I'd reconsider my ways if I was making many other people so angry that they'd be bombing me regularly, but I guess that's just me... I don't think I'd want to compromise sunshine for my warped ideology....
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Lebanon VII
Surprisingly, I'm not sick and tired of Middle Eastern food. I am dearly wishing for some sushi and (can you believe it) dim-sum, but at least I'm not as tired of hummus as I was of paneer...
One of the things that is very odd here in the Middle East is the method of construction. I note here that people do not complete building jobs at all; sometimes they'll be missing the top floor of a building, sometimes one half of the building only has the scaffolding in place. It is quite odd. I had read somewhere it was due to the reluctance, and even prohibition of debt amongst Muslims. Hence, you build with as much money as you have; once that is gone, you wait until you accumulate some more, and then you continue with building. I was then told that was not necessarily true. Certainly, people do not necessarily complete buildings all in one go, but sometimes it is simply an issue of financing. Well, whichever way it is, it is quite interesting how many buildings have struts sticking out of them, in anticipation of further construction, whenever that is to occur...
That being said, Beirut is a relatively new city. That is to say, many of the buildings here have been constructed since the end of the civil war. There is a certain gracefulness (due to the French influence) and modernist feel to many of the buildings. Also, that means that many of the previous buildings that were pulverized during the war are hidden, or mostly disappeared. There are still many buildings with obvious bullet-holes and mortar shell holes in their walls, but the new buildings certainly out-number them.
Furthermore, I've been utterly unsuccessful retrieving photos of tanks, blown-out buildings and the like in Beirut. Due to the current simmering tensions here, for the lack of a President, there is heightened military security around the downtown. (Going through a check-point, I accidentally hit a soldier in the face with my hat as I was emptying out my bag to show him there was really only my hat in it... oops... I've never hit a soldier in the face before, but I didn't think that this was the best situation to have done that...) I've been denied to take photographs, and have not been allowed close enough to others to snap an adequate photo. Let me assure you though that the marks of the war still remain; it is quite something to note the mangled, twisted remains of the intersection where Rafik Hariri was blown up a few years ago. The road has been repaved, but the shriveled shells of buildings, with concrete sticking onto steel rods, curling over the edges of overhangs and previous windows is quite something; it is clear that 'they' wanted him good and dead...
One of the things that is very odd here in the Middle East is the method of construction. I note here that people do not complete building jobs at all; sometimes they'll be missing the top floor of a building, sometimes one half of the building only has the scaffolding in place. It is quite odd. I had read somewhere it was due to the reluctance, and even prohibition of debt amongst Muslims. Hence, you build with as much money as you have; once that is gone, you wait until you accumulate some more, and then you continue with building. I was then told that was not necessarily true. Certainly, people do not necessarily complete buildings all in one go, but sometimes it is simply an issue of financing. Well, whichever way it is, it is quite interesting how many buildings have struts sticking out of them, in anticipation of further construction, whenever that is to occur...
That being said, Beirut is a relatively new city. That is to say, many of the buildings here have been constructed since the end of the civil war. There is a certain gracefulness (due to the French influence) and modernist feel to many of the buildings. Also, that means that many of the previous buildings that were pulverized during the war are hidden, or mostly disappeared. There are still many buildings with obvious bullet-holes and mortar shell holes in their walls, but the new buildings certainly out-number them.
Furthermore, I've been utterly unsuccessful retrieving photos of tanks, blown-out buildings and the like in Beirut. Due to the current simmering tensions here, for the lack of a President, there is heightened military security around the downtown. (Going through a check-point, I accidentally hit a soldier in the face with my hat as I was emptying out my bag to show him there was really only my hat in it... oops... I've never hit a soldier in the face before, but I didn't think that this was the best situation to have done that...) I've been denied to take photographs, and have not been allowed close enough to others to snap an adequate photo. Let me assure you though that the marks of the war still remain; it is quite something to note the mangled, twisted remains of the intersection where Rafik Hariri was blown up a few years ago. The road has been repaved, but the shriveled shells of buildings, with concrete sticking onto steel rods, curling over the edges of overhangs and previous windows is quite something; it is clear that 'they' wanted him good and dead...
Monday, November 26, 2007
Lebanon VI
The more I am learning about the politics of this country, the more I am profoundly convinced that people do need to deliberately pursue peace rather than partisanship. It confounds my mind at how men are more willing to go to war than to compromise. I am hoping and praying that something positive may come from the Annapolis conference, but I am not sure how a 2 day conference, moderated by the US, is going to fully resolve Palestine, the Golan, Hamas and Hezbollah, the lack of a Lebanese president, the Iraqi refugee crisis, etc etc etc... being able to start to see it from multiple sides now, it is not so easy to paint in large strokes of black and white...
Looking outside the window right now, I see a large plume of smoke coming up from the south end of Beirut: I am not sure why, and I am hoping it is only an accidental fire, and not something more ominous than this. I do want to get a picture with one of the tanks on the streets here, but I do know, as "cool" and "fun" as that might be, it does point to the brokenness in this country that serves as the barometer for the rest of the region...
Looking outside the window right now, I see a large plume of smoke coming up from the south end of Beirut: I am not sure why, and I am hoping it is only an accidental fire, and not something more ominous than this. I do want to get a picture with one of the tanks on the streets here, but I do know, as "cool" and "fun" as that might be, it does point to the brokenness in this country that serves as the barometer for the rest of the region...
Lebanon V
One of the things that I've been noticing by the sides of roads and in little crevices here and there are these random shrines to the Virgin Mary both here and in Syria. I couldn't figure out why; they didn't seem to be at particularly dangerous traffic points, not necessarily near religious buildings, nor surrounded by flowers or incense votives. They would simply be pictures or statues of Mary, maybe with a Bible or one plastic flower, encased in a cage. Very odd.
I finally asked someone if they knew what those were for: they told me it was to help prevent litter... hunh? Apparently, people build those little shrines in corners that they don't want litter accumulating, and it ACTUALLY prevents people from littering - obviously only in those corners, as there's plenty everywhere else.
I don't understand why a simple "Do not litter" sign with a rubbish bin wouldn't do... besides, Mary was a mother; I'm sure she could tolerate a bit of mess...
I finally asked someone if they knew what those were for: they told me it was to help prevent litter... hunh? Apparently, people build those little shrines in corners that they don't want litter accumulating, and it ACTUALLY prevents people from littering - obviously only in those corners, as there's plenty everywhere else.
I don't understand why a simple "Do not litter" sign with a rubbish bin wouldn't do... besides, Mary was a mother; I'm sure she could tolerate a bit of mess...
Lebanon IV
So I went to possibly the craziest tourist site ever... apparently it's known far and wide within Lebanon, and tons of Lebanese come to visit, but I'd never heard of it before, and all I could think of is, "Boy, this is some crazy s#&^!" walking through...
There is a man named Mr. Moussa who dreamt about living in a castle when he was just a wee lad, even though he was very poor. One day in his art class, he was drawing this castle, and he told his teacher about his dream. He was then soundly beaten (which isn't surprising - I've been hearing a lot of stories along those lines in the religious madrassas) for dreaming such things, as they would never come true.
Well, wouldn't you know it, Mr. Moussa becomes this huge tycoon, a very rich man, and he goes about building a freaking castle in the Lebanese mountains. Takes him several decades to finish his chef d'oeuvre, though he likely took a short hiatus during the war, and allows him to snub his nose at his old teacher, who is, unfortunately, dead by that point.
It was really crazy: it had a moat, turrets, drawbridge, everything! He doesn't actually live inside, but he does have dozens of dioramas (that do mechanize - it's almost like going to see "It's a small world after all" at Disney World) depicting traditional life in Druze country. There is also a diorama of the Last Supper and of Santa Claus (both of which don't make sense, as Mr. Moussa is not of "Christian" heritage, but anyways... as I said, crazy shit...) There is also a diorama of him as a child in his classroom being beaten by that original teacher! Then he has a motley collection of guns and other miscellaneous items that don't really have anything to do with one another, but it's crazy, as I said before.
I totally couldn't believe it: it is possibly one of the strangest things I have seen in the world so far, because it is SO entirely random, with the castle and the dioramas and the showcase displays of kitsch... but I got a picture with Mr. Moussa in front of his castle, so at least I know that it is really true...
There is a man named Mr. Moussa who dreamt about living in a castle when he was just a wee lad, even though he was very poor. One day in his art class, he was drawing this castle, and he told his teacher about his dream. He was then soundly beaten (which isn't surprising - I've been hearing a lot of stories along those lines in the religious madrassas) for dreaming such things, as they would never come true.
Well, wouldn't you know it, Mr. Moussa becomes this huge tycoon, a very rich man, and he goes about building a freaking castle in the Lebanese mountains. Takes him several decades to finish his chef d'oeuvre, though he likely took a short hiatus during the war, and allows him to snub his nose at his old teacher, who is, unfortunately, dead by that point.
It was really crazy: it had a moat, turrets, drawbridge, everything! He doesn't actually live inside, but he does have dozens of dioramas (that do mechanize - it's almost like going to see "It's a small world after all" at Disney World) depicting traditional life in Druze country. There is also a diorama of the Last Supper and of Santa Claus (both of which don't make sense, as Mr. Moussa is not of "Christian" heritage, but anyways... as I said, crazy shit...) There is also a diorama of him as a child in his classroom being beaten by that original teacher! Then he has a motley collection of guns and other miscellaneous items that don't really have anything to do with one another, but it's crazy, as I said before.
I totally couldn't believe it: it is possibly one of the strangest things I have seen in the world so far, because it is SO entirely random, with the castle and the dioramas and the showcase displays of kitsch... but I got a picture with Mr. Moussa in front of his castle, so at least I know that it is really true...
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Lebanon III
I hadn't realized how mountainous and lush Lebanon actually is, and how little of it is flat. The flat part is mainly along the coast of the Mediterranean. Now, it's a very tiny little country, so I had realized how small the distances are between towns... in fact, it's at the point where it's all sprawl, all the way up and down the entire coast... we had driven up past a continuous line of development all the way up to three towns up from Beirut! There is very little to distinguish (to the untrained eye) as to when you've actually arrived in the next destination.
I myself am staying in a suburb of Beirut, high in the mountains, and am overlooking Beirut and the Mediterranean as we speak. Due to the tensions of the last few days and recent travelling outside of the capital, I haven't yet been down there very much yet, but I have driven by where Hariri was assassinated (of which the marks of the damage caused by the blast is mind-numbing to see)...
I myself am staying in a suburb of Beirut, high in the mountains, and am overlooking Beirut and the Mediterranean as we speak. Due to the tensions of the last few days and recent travelling outside of the capital, I haven't yet been down there very much yet, but I have driven by where Hariri was assassinated (of which the marks of the damage caused by the blast is mind-numbing to see)...
Lebanon II
One of the things that I've totally become enamoured of is Al-Jazeera TV - the English version, of course, as I still understand very little Arabic, unfortunately. I am particularly a fan as they are stridently opposed to the regime in Saudi Arabia, and are in fact, banned from the air in that country. One show which I would highly recommend is called EveryWoman, which focusses on stories affecting women around the world, and highlighting their general plight. For example, on today's show, the stories that they covered included that poor Saudi girl who was gang-raped and SENTENCED to 200 lashes and 6 months' in prison - for being a rape VICTIM. Some of the perpetrators were also sentenced between 3-5 years in prison, but some were not. They also spoke about paraquat use in developing countries (despite it being a health hazard and banned in Western countries), and seeing as most crop sprayers are women, the physical damage that it is causing amongst some of the poorest and most vulnerable women in countries' attempts to become "economically progressive". The last story they covered was in Jodphur, where, for one day a year, the women get to "act" like men, as a celebration of a story of an argument between a Hindu god and his wife. This means they get to dress up like men, and then beat the men in the city with sticks. Ummm, I think that it's good that the men get a very small taste of their own medicine, but I find it very telling that the main action that is involved in "being a man" is beating women. And, of course, everything goes back to normal for the other 364 days in the year....
Lebanon I
So, I had spent the first twelve or so hours that I was in Beirut half-wondering if I was going to have to get out again. As the government had (again) delayed presidential elections, and there was relatively tight security around the country (ie. checkpoints, and TANKS! - which were cool, and soldiers), when the outgoing president decided at 9pm that there was going to be military martial law to keep order after he left office at midnight, until a president could be picked, the tension heightened just a wee bit. I suppose that would've been a bit exciting, being caught in the middle of martial law, but there was much negotiation in the ensuing three hours, and it was decided that the army would work with the current government to help decide on a president. I'm not entirely sure how having the army help you is such a great thing, but apparently it's better than pure martial law. Whatever; all's it is to say is that it's not as terribly exciting, politically speaking, as it could have been, and I certainly don't need the Canadian government to evacuate me out of Lebanon.
Certainly, one of the big confusing things that I suppose you just have to be Lebanese to start to grasp is the nature of the politics here. It is terribly jumbled, and sometimes just plain old doesn't make sense, however, there is one way I have been able to discern who is a supporter of Hezbollah: basically, any man who keeps talking, really loudly, and completely disregards anyone else's opinion, or even the newscaster trying to end the interview, is a supporter of Hezbollah. Apparently, this is perceived as a great virtue, this being incredibly rude, as for the Shiia, the one who has the loudest and strongest (NOT the wisest or the smartest) voice is clearly the victor. That is ridiculous, as I can think of many loud and strident voices (present company included) that are clearly not the wisest voices...
I notice I haven't had particularly a lot of funny stories as I usually do on this trip... I guess the Middle East isn't particularly funny...
Certainly, one of the big confusing things that I suppose you just have to be Lebanese to start to grasp is the nature of the politics here. It is terribly jumbled, and sometimes just plain old doesn't make sense, however, there is one way I have been able to discern who is a supporter of Hezbollah: basically, any man who keeps talking, really loudly, and completely disregards anyone else's opinion, or even the newscaster trying to end the interview, is a supporter of Hezbollah. Apparently, this is perceived as a great virtue, this being incredibly rude, as for the Shiia, the one who has the loudest and strongest (NOT the wisest or the smartest) voice is clearly the victor. That is ridiculous, as I can think of many loud and strident voices (present company included) that are clearly not the wisest voices...
I notice I haven't had particularly a lot of funny stories as I usually do on this trip... I guess the Middle East isn't particularly funny...
Friday, November 23, 2007
Border Crossings II
So, this border crossing was a little bit more involved than the previous one, mainly due to the on-again/off-again nature of the presidential elections in Lebanon. Was supposed to cross yesterday, the day before the elections (which actually didn't occur today), but was assured that I could cross on election day without problems. Until there WERE problems: businesses were ordered to close, and additional check points and security points (ie soldiers and tanks) were going to be put in place on election day, so my original form of transport cancelled last minute. Then, we had to scramble around to find another way to get in, which I did, but had to pay twice as much to get here!
For all of that, the crossing was fairly uneventful: the soldiers were really quite friendly and helpful, despite their machine guns - I suppose the French helps too...
All of that hassle was a bit overblown, as the politicians then blustered around and delayed the election, yet again... I was doing a bit of math, and, considering there are only 3 million Lebanese, when one subtracts the number of children, women, elderly men, and men who actually want peace and not a return to civil war, there are likely only about 150,000-200,000 men who are actually the problem in this country... which is an insignificant amount of people causing so much strife in a tiny parcel of land... I think they should be allowed to go up to the north-east or south-east corner of the country and just duke it out amongst themselves....
Another point which I forgot to make about Syria: I did, in fact, encounter one woman who had come to the clinic in full chador (which, in my opinion, is almost worse than the burqa, as there isn't even an "eye screen" - basically, you are covered with a large black cloth, full length black gloves, wrist guards, etc etc, so you cannot even tell there's a human in there... she had come in with her husband and child (the child being the patient, and the father being clothed in normal Western-style clothing, of course)... it was as if she wasn't there... it was eerie... at least with the niqab, you can see the eyes, so you know there's a person there... but this, this was as if she was a non-person, non-existent... she didn't speak, I couldn't even appreciate if there was a face, or a soul, behind that blackness... like the Ringwraiths, actually...
For all of that, the crossing was fairly uneventful: the soldiers were really quite friendly and helpful, despite their machine guns - I suppose the French helps too...
All of that hassle was a bit overblown, as the politicians then blustered around and delayed the election, yet again... I was doing a bit of math, and, considering there are only 3 million Lebanese, when one subtracts the number of children, women, elderly men, and men who actually want peace and not a return to civil war, there are likely only about 150,000-200,000 men who are actually the problem in this country... which is an insignificant amount of people causing so much strife in a tiny parcel of land... I think they should be allowed to go up to the north-east or south-east corner of the country and just duke it out amongst themselves....
Another point which I forgot to make about Syria: I did, in fact, encounter one woman who had come to the clinic in full chador (which, in my opinion, is almost worse than the burqa, as there isn't even an "eye screen" - basically, you are covered with a large black cloth, full length black gloves, wrist guards, etc etc, so you cannot even tell there's a human in there... she had come in with her husband and child (the child being the patient, and the father being clothed in normal Western-style clothing, of course)... it was as if she wasn't there... it was eerie... at least with the niqab, you can see the eyes, so you know there's a person there... but this, this was as if she was a non-person, non-existent... she didn't speak, I couldn't even appreciate if there was a face, or a soul, behind that blackness... like the Ringwraiths, actually...
Thursday, November 22, 2007
Syria V
There are a lot of stray cats here in Damascus. Which is strange, as Arabs are not big fans of cats. However, they're also not willing to implement some sort of spaying program for them, so there are just a whole bunch of them roaming the streets.
Also, one thing that must be noted is the rich church history that is here in Syria. I have been to Crusader castles, ancient churches dating from the first to third centuries, and been awed by Roman excavation sites. I've also visited one of the few villages left that speak Aramaic, so that was kind of neat too. There are gobs of churches here, ranging from Orthodox to Catholic to Maronite to Protestant; it is wonderful to see the spectrum of believers here, as it is in sharp contrast to what is portrayed in the Western media...
It's interesting as there is currently an ad campaign going on TV through the Middle East basically saying that terrorism isn't cool and it isn't consistent with the teachings of Islam. But then, I saw a music video where it looked like the storyline for the singer was that she fell for a terrorist and they were running around in a car from the police, so I'm not exactly sure how this all pans out...
Also, one thing that must be noted is the rich church history that is here in Syria. I have been to Crusader castles, ancient churches dating from the first to third centuries, and been awed by Roman excavation sites. I've also visited one of the few villages left that speak Aramaic, so that was kind of neat too. There are gobs of churches here, ranging from Orthodox to Catholic to Maronite to Protestant; it is wonderful to see the spectrum of believers here, as it is in sharp contrast to what is portrayed in the Western media...
It's interesting as there is currently an ad campaign going on TV through the Middle East basically saying that terrorism isn't cool and it isn't consistent with the teachings of Islam. But then, I saw a music video where it looked like the storyline for the singer was that she fell for a terrorist and they were running around in a car from the police, so I'm not exactly sure how this all pans out...
Syria IV
A few notes about the government here:
There are a lot of photos of the president and his (deceased, and former president) father around. Again, I have learned that Bashir Al-Assad is actually quite intelligent, and also did a residency in opthalmology in the USA when he was younger!
Also, I have been walking past this very large walled complex, surrounded by men with machine guns. This is all the more disconcerting in that none of these men are in uniform; somehow, the uniform makes all the difference - it makes carrying a machine gun look normal somehow.... at any rate, I had found out it was actually a base for the secret police... after which, I thought, wait a minute, if I, a foreigner, can find out that the secret police are housed here, it's not much of a secret, is it? Furthermore, is it also really a secret if it has got men with machine guns standing around it? Just a thought...
Also, interestingly, on BBC World there was quite a bit of talk about Syria on the news yeserday... mainly about the status of Iraqi refugees here, which is complex, and I'm not sure if this blog post will print if I talk about it too much here, but it was interesting to note that the BBC had gotten the Iraqi ambassador to England as an interview guest last night, and just as he was going to start speaking, there was a "technical difficulty" on the TV, only for the BBC, and only for the exact length of the interview.... interesting...
There are a lot of photos of the president and his (deceased, and former president) father around. Again, I have learned that Bashir Al-Assad is actually quite intelligent, and also did a residency in opthalmology in the USA when he was younger!
Also, I have been walking past this very large walled complex, surrounded by men with machine guns. This is all the more disconcerting in that none of these men are in uniform; somehow, the uniform makes all the difference - it makes carrying a machine gun look normal somehow.... at any rate, I had found out it was actually a base for the secret police... after which, I thought, wait a minute, if I, a foreigner, can find out that the secret police are housed here, it's not much of a secret, is it? Furthermore, is it also really a secret if it has got men with machine guns standing around it? Just a thought...
Also, interestingly, on BBC World there was quite a bit of talk about Syria on the news yeserday... mainly about the status of Iraqi refugees here, which is complex, and I'm not sure if this blog post will print if I talk about it too much here, but it was interesting to note that the BBC had gotten the Iraqi ambassador to England as an interview guest last night, and just as he was going to start speaking, there was a "technical difficulty" on the TV, only for the BBC, and only for the exact length of the interview.... interesting...
Tuesday, November 20, 2007
Syria III
I must say, this is the first trip that I have simply eaten anything that has been given to me, or anything on the street that happens to catch my fancy... I don't think this is the wisest way to go, but my intestinal system has been totally fine with this, and I've been able to eat some of the yummiest food by just eating whatever is given to me... about the fruit juices: here, on every other street corner (almost like Starbucks) are these fruit juice stands where they will freshly make a fruit juice for you, of almost any flavour of super fresh fruit! It's awesome! You get a large for about $0.50! I've had oranges, bananas, pomegranates, strawberries etc etc put into my smoothies! When I think about how much (powdered) bubble tea costs at home, it just gets my goat!
Syria II
One of the things that struck me most in driving into Syria was the fact that women walk on the street. That was the big, huge initial impression that I got - I suddenly felt free to walk on the streets again. The longer I am here, the more I am completely baffled by their being lumped into the "axis of evil", as they are some of the friendliest and generous people I have met. And they have awesome desserts. And fruit juice (more on that later, but they make awesome fresh fruit juice).
In speaking with some, it appears that likely most of the beef that America (I'm starting to get in the practice of calling it "America", as apparently, most of the world does, except for us) has with Syria is actually it's anti-Israel stance, and the fact that it has no useful oil stores. Frankly, it's anti-Israel stance is NOT anti-semitic at all, but purely geo-political in nature, and it is not willing to compromise with a country it feels has taken some of its land away (ie. the Golan Heights). I suspect there may also be a point to make as well in that Syria is run by a dictator (a reasonable one, but a dictator nonetheless) - not that any Syrian would say this, as it is illegal, and, I think, it wouldn't even occur to them that having him as a dictor is a bad thing, as he's a benevolent dictator with a considerable cult of personality going on.
These are important points to make, as I note that this country is MUCH more Westernized than Jordan is, for sure. Which makes the contrast even odder - another letter I will be writing when I return will be to Mr. George W. Bush about this. For America has very good relations with Jordan and Saudi Arabia, as they either have a)brokered a peace deal with Israel or b)have massive oil stores. However, we well know Saudi is hardly known for its amazing human rights record, its advocacy for freedom of speech, or its vocality about the equality of women, and actually, neither is Jordan. So, being here certainly has made me much more cynical of the Bush administration, as Middle Eastern politics, as handled by the West, are certainly more dependent on circumstances than any sort of principles of freedom and democracy...
Furthermore, I spent some time talking with an Iraqi who fled from Baghdad in 2005 (two years after the invasion), when his situation just became too unbearable to stay any longer. I think I learned more about Middle Eastern politics talking to him for fifteen minutes than anything I could've learned from watching CNN or the CBC for hours... fascinating stuff...
In speaking with some, it appears that likely most of the beef that America (I'm starting to get in the practice of calling it "America", as apparently, most of the world does, except for us) has with Syria is actually it's anti-Israel stance, and the fact that it has no useful oil stores. Frankly, it's anti-Israel stance is NOT anti-semitic at all, but purely geo-political in nature, and it is not willing to compromise with a country it feels has taken some of its land away (ie. the Golan Heights). I suspect there may also be a point to make as well in that Syria is run by a dictator (a reasonable one, but a dictator nonetheless) - not that any Syrian would say this, as it is illegal, and, I think, it wouldn't even occur to them that having him as a dictor is a bad thing, as he's a benevolent dictator with a considerable cult of personality going on.
These are important points to make, as I note that this country is MUCH more Westernized than Jordan is, for sure. Which makes the contrast even odder - another letter I will be writing when I return will be to Mr. George W. Bush about this. For America has very good relations with Jordan and Saudi Arabia, as they either have a)brokered a peace deal with Israel or b)have massive oil stores. However, we well know Saudi is hardly known for its amazing human rights record, its advocacy for freedom of speech, or its vocality about the equality of women, and actually, neither is Jordan. So, being here certainly has made me much more cynical of the Bush administration, as Middle Eastern politics, as handled by the West, are certainly more dependent on circumstances than any sort of principles of freedom and democracy...
Furthermore, I spent some time talking with an Iraqi who fled from Baghdad in 2005 (two years after the invasion), when his situation just became too unbearable to stay any longer. I think I learned more about Middle Eastern politics talking to him for fifteen minutes than anything I could've learned from watching CNN or the CBC for hours... fascinating stuff...
Syria I
So there are plenty of things to write about here, including the "axis of evil" bit and all, but I'm just going to write about one thing here, mainly because it just happened most recently. I was wandering about the original city of Damascus this afternoon, mainly around the souq, but a few things of note:
We were trying to find St Paul's Church, where Paul was supposedly let down in the basket at the city wall. Ironically, you can't get into the church from within the Old City; in fact, you actually have to get in from the outside (ironic, as Paul was having trouble getting out of the city), which we didn't know about. So, we were wandering around in the corner where the church should have been and wondering where to go. Luckily, a little old lady came around the corner, as we asked her where Paul's kineset was... she starts banging on the nearest residential doorway and ringing their doorbell... so we assumed the church was behind that wall... the door opens, and we walk in, thinking we were walking into the church... it became rapidly apparent that we had been let into a nursing home, and we didn't know how to get out... luckily, we saw a courtyard, so we followed a family out, and found our way through the backdoor of the church!! I can assure you that at least that nursing home looked pretty much up to Western standards, so that was nice...
Several hours later, we kind of got lost trying to get out of the alleyways of the Old City, so we started heading in the vague direction we thought we were heading in... the streets were getting narrower and narrower, so then we thought we had to backtrack, until another little old lady comes out of her house and starts signalling for us to follow her. We assumed she was going to show us the way out to the nearest main street.... nope, she leads us to a dead-end doorway, and then starts complaining about how we need to call a builder and fix the leaking water through her sister's roof... That was pretty confusing, as it wasn't clear if she was asking for money from "rich" Westerners or not, until it was explained that our house wasn't here at all... it certainly took a while for her to realize we were just lost, not crappy flat-mates... so that was odd and entirely random...
We were trying to find St Paul's Church, where Paul was supposedly let down in the basket at the city wall. Ironically, you can't get into the church from within the Old City; in fact, you actually have to get in from the outside (ironic, as Paul was having trouble getting out of the city), which we didn't know about. So, we were wandering around in the corner where the church should have been and wondering where to go. Luckily, a little old lady came around the corner, as we asked her where Paul's kineset was... she starts banging on the nearest residential doorway and ringing their doorbell... so we assumed the church was behind that wall... the door opens, and we walk in, thinking we were walking into the church... it became rapidly apparent that we had been let into a nursing home, and we didn't know how to get out... luckily, we saw a courtyard, so we followed a family out, and found our way through the backdoor of the church!! I can assure you that at least that nursing home looked pretty much up to Western standards, so that was nice...
Several hours later, we kind of got lost trying to get out of the alleyways of the Old City, so we started heading in the vague direction we thought we were heading in... the streets were getting narrower and narrower, so then we thought we had to backtrack, until another little old lady comes out of her house and starts signalling for us to follow her. We assumed she was going to show us the way out to the nearest main street.... nope, she leads us to a dead-end doorway, and then starts complaining about how we need to call a builder and fix the leaking water through her sister's roof... That was pretty confusing, as it wasn't clear if she was asking for money from "rich" Westerners or not, until it was explained that our house wasn't here at all... it certainly took a while for her to realize we were just lost, not crappy flat-mates... so that was odd and entirely random...
Sunday, November 18, 2007
Border Crossings I
Well, I must say, I crossed the border several days ago, and I have lots to write about the arrival, but a few notes about crossing borders:
I think KFC is one of the few multinationals that can adapt everywhere. I realize MacDonalds has usually received the brunt of the scorn and is the symbol of globalization everywhere, but I must say, KFC is even more pervasive, because who's going to object to chicken, especially when it's deep-fried? Sometimes I think that the good old Colonel should be the face of globalization...
Crossing the border was much less hassle than I thought; I was sure I was going to encounter some austere Syrian border guards, but it totally wasn't that way at all. My servee's driver and the Bedouin who rode with us were helpful, and the Syrians were downright friendly! First impressions: Syria is much more fertile (we were driving mainly beside produce trucks all the way to Damascus) and green than Jordan, for sure, but there's much more to it than that....
Also, I'm developing a theory that the relative properity and wealth of a nation is directly proportional to how orderly traffic flow is in your country. I think there is something to be said about a country that adopts orderliness as a virtue to leading to economic prosperity. It is strange how traffic "rules" are merely suggestions in most of the developing world, rather than laws. It's interesting how a two-lane highway is an abstraction, and, in fact, can adapt to becoming three or four lanes, depending on what the needs are at the moment. It was quite hair-raising when we drove between a transport truck, a tourist bus, and another car simultaneously on the highway in order to pass all THREE vehicles in a two lane highway....
I think KFC is one of the few multinationals that can adapt everywhere. I realize MacDonalds has usually received the brunt of the scorn and is the symbol of globalization everywhere, but I must say, KFC is even more pervasive, because who's going to object to chicken, especially when it's deep-fried? Sometimes I think that the good old Colonel should be the face of globalization...
Crossing the border was much less hassle than I thought; I was sure I was going to encounter some austere Syrian border guards, but it totally wasn't that way at all. My servee's driver and the Bedouin who rode with us were helpful, and the Syrians were downright friendly! First impressions: Syria is much more fertile (we were driving mainly beside produce trucks all the way to Damascus) and green than Jordan, for sure, but there's much more to it than that....
Also, I'm developing a theory that the relative properity and wealth of a nation is directly proportional to how orderly traffic flow is in your country. I think there is something to be said about a country that adopts orderliness as a virtue to leading to economic prosperity. It is strange how traffic "rules" are merely suggestions in most of the developing world, rather than laws. It's interesting how a two-lane highway is an abstraction, and, in fact, can adapt to becoming three or four lanes, depending on what the needs are at the moment. It was quite hair-raising when we drove between a transport truck, a tourist bus, and another car simultaneously on the highway in order to pass all THREE vehicles in a two lane highway....
Thursday, November 15, 2007
Jordan IX
One final thing I must add about this country: I think I quite like the king. Not that I got to meet him or anything, but I think I will indeed be writing him a fan letter when I get home. I certainly do not envy him at all, however; I think he has one of the crappiest and suckiest job in the world. King Abdullah is married to Queen Rania, who is drop-dead gorgeous, and they've got four beautiful kids. He ascended to the throne in 1999, after his father, King Hussein, announced that he would take the throne two days before his death (This was quite a surprise, as King Abdullah is not the first born son, nor even a son of King Hussein's first wife). The King was actually brought to the USA for high school, and did his undergraduate studies at Brown. He then went onto Sandhurst Academy in the UK for further military training, so he's quite an educated man. Furthermore, he spent most of his formative years being exposed to ideas in Western culture such as freedom of speech, gender equity, freedom of religion and expression, and religious tolerance. I believe his intent was to continue living abroad, until he got called to the throne.
And this is where I do not envy his job AT ALL: Jordan is a constitutional monarchy, that is to say, though he is king, and though they say the king does have veto power, and they say he does have the power to institute laws without Parliament's approval, this actually does not happen, and unfortunately, the king must be able to have enough political clout to have Parliament vote his way. King Abdullah has been a wise king, but his hands have been tied by the conservative and fundamentalist Parliament. For example, he has been trying to abolish the law allowing honour killings (can you imagine? Honour killings are still LEGAL here!), but he has been blocked by the Parliament (can you imagine? Still blocking that legislation in the 21st century??). Twenty years ago, it was rare to see a women in Jordan wearing the hijab, and now, it is exceedingly common to wear coverings, even to the niqab and the chador. This was a result of King Hussein having to bow to religious pressure in Parliament to allow fundamentalists and conservatives to run the educational system twenty years prior. Prior to this, children were in co-ed schools, and were following the British schooling system with emphasis on the International Baccalaureate. Now, it's just religious hodge-podge.
I can imagine life here would be quite different for a lot of people, and for the better, if King Abdullah were actually allowed to rule like a monarch. I think with other things that I've been told about the King, I think he's a good guy, in a tough place, with incredible vision that he's not allowed to fly with...
And this is where I do not envy his job AT ALL: Jordan is a constitutional monarchy, that is to say, though he is king, and though they say the king does have veto power, and they say he does have the power to institute laws without Parliament's approval, this actually does not happen, and unfortunately, the king must be able to have enough political clout to have Parliament vote his way. King Abdullah has been a wise king, but his hands have been tied by the conservative and fundamentalist Parliament. For example, he has been trying to abolish the law allowing honour killings (can you imagine? Honour killings are still LEGAL here!), but he has been blocked by the Parliament (can you imagine? Still blocking that legislation in the 21st century??). Twenty years ago, it was rare to see a women in Jordan wearing the hijab, and now, it is exceedingly common to wear coverings, even to the niqab and the chador. This was a result of King Hussein having to bow to religious pressure in Parliament to allow fundamentalists and conservatives to run the educational system twenty years prior. Prior to this, children were in co-ed schools, and were following the British schooling system with emphasis on the International Baccalaureate. Now, it's just religious hodge-podge.
I can imagine life here would be quite different for a lot of people, and for the better, if King Abdullah were actually allowed to rule like a monarch. I think with other things that I've been told about the King, I think he's a good guy, in a tough place, with incredible vision that he's not allowed to fly with...
Jordan VIII
OK, I suppose I must mention that I did make it to Petra a week ago, and it was BEAUTIFUL and AMAZING and INCREDIBLE (which it was). It was also neat to clamber up and down the rocks and do the "alternate route" all the way over to the ancient city, while checking out the Bedouin caves (where many still live, including a New Zealand-born nurse who married a Bedouin from here thirty years ago, when she came here as a tourist!). I couldn't remember for the life of me the Indiana Jones movie where it plays a prominent role, but certainly, we were busy singing, "dunh-da-da-daaaaaah, dunh-da-daaaaah, dunh-da-da-Daaaaah, dunh-da-da-Da-DAH! etc etc etc" while climbing around...
I'm realizing there are many things that I want to share here, but I recognize a public blog is not the place - there are stories that I think are really only appropriate for face-to-face time...
That being said, however, there is one I can peripherally talk about: I had been giving a few seminars on various topics pertinent to women's health here. One of the ones that I was particularly interested in giving was on domestic violence, as it is pervasive here (as it is everywhere). I had spoken on what it was, how one can identify it, how sadly and incredibly common it is worldwide, and how the cycle of abuse by perpetrators occurs. What saddened me is how some women smirked when I identified various actions that constituted domestic violence, as if they were saying, "What? That is nothing compared to what I get at home."... The additional point that I did have to make was how God feels about the matter, emphasizing that He made both men and women of equal value, worth and dignity, that He despises violence and that He was always been on the side of the weak and the oppressed, and that He, in fact, loves both men and women equally. Boy! That opened up a whole theological debate for quite a while: several women applauded and said that this was a good teaching, and others were not so sure: their imams taught differently from this, and so this could not be true. It was quite a lively discussion, which I think benefitted all who were in attendance... I am hoping, quite badly, that this may help to open minds to consider where the truth really lies, and may begin to empower women in this country for the better...
I'm realizing there are many things that I want to share here, but I recognize a public blog is not the place - there are stories that I think are really only appropriate for face-to-face time...
That being said, however, there is one I can peripherally talk about: I had been giving a few seminars on various topics pertinent to women's health here. One of the ones that I was particularly interested in giving was on domestic violence, as it is pervasive here (as it is everywhere). I had spoken on what it was, how one can identify it, how sadly and incredibly common it is worldwide, and how the cycle of abuse by perpetrators occurs. What saddened me is how some women smirked when I identified various actions that constituted domestic violence, as if they were saying, "What? That is nothing compared to what I get at home."... The additional point that I did have to make was how God feels about the matter, emphasizing that He made both men and women of equal value, worth and dignity, that He despises violence and that He was always been on the side of the weak and the oppressed, and that He, in fact, loves both men and women equally. Boy! That opened up a whole theological debate for quite a while: several women applauded and said that this was a good teaching, and others were not so sure: their imams taught differently from this, and so this could not be true. It was quite a lively discussion, which I think benefitted all who were in attendance... I am hoping, quite badly, that this may help to open minds to consider where the truth really lies, and may begin to empower women in this country for the better...
Jordan VII
One of the main things I've found that I've been doing around here is substitute English teaching. It's actually been quite fun, and funny, at times. One of my advanced English classes had to write "news stories" based on a few headlines that I had given them: some of the stories that came out of them were worthy of Bollywood treatment! One of the funniest was about these long-lost identical twins, one of whom had been taken to India when he was a baby. The other, as an adult, travels to India, whereupon he is mistakenly arrested for diamond smuggling. The original twin, also, is arrested for the actual crime, and the two become reaquainted in an Indian jail... after which the adventure ensued...
The other bit of this is the absolute CHEESE that comes out of some of my students' mouths: one of my beginner classes is exclusively young men. We were learning the names of colours, and, when asked to point out various objects that were different colours in the classroom, one young fellow puts his hand to his chest, and pronounces, quite dramatically: "My heart.... is red...", after which I could only roll my eyes and ask him to sit down...
Furthermore, what has been interesting is some of the health perceptions here. One woman I had seen in clinic was very reluctant to have me examine her, as she was terribly anxious that I would find some terrible disease. It took her friends another day to convince her to come back to see me and she was apparently unable to sleep. Overall, she ultimately was simply constipated. The absolute and utter joy she had with that diagnosis was frankly, bizarre. She was kissing the translator and I, and announcing to the rest of the waiting room that I was a "wonderful, excellent doctor" (obviously, she doesn't really know what she's talking about - she clearly is delusional). However, it does speak to the fatalistic, fear-driven culture here - that they would rather not know, and not find out, something that could easily be prevented and cured, as it would be insha'allah to interfere otherwise.
The degree to which fatalism plays into decision-making and lifestyle is sad, actually, as is the ability to believe in two completely contradictory statements simultaneously. One such example was a magazine article that I was shown about 'how to deal with women in the workplace'. Of course, as women are clearly temptresses and unable to control their abilities to seduce men, they really should not be in the workplace to lead men astray. However, if it is insisted that a woman should be working, then what the men should each do is suckle at her breast twice daily for five days at the office - this apparently will strengthen a "family bond" between them, and then they will be like mother and son, and work together accordingly. HELLO?????? I know I've heard many idiotic things in my life, but certainly, this is one of the most brain-stupefying things I have ever heard about, particularly in the context that they want women to be fully covered - but just not in this case - instead, it is a good idea for women to be fully exposed in public, and not only that, but violated in public at the workplace. Drives me absolutely batty... it does, of course, speak to the general perception of woman as maternal virgin/woman as seductive whore imagery that has been plaguing women for centuries... oh wait, I thought I wasn't going to start on issues of sexuality and gender here...
The other bit of this is the absolute CHEESE that comes out of some of my students' mouths: one of my beginner classes is exclusively young men. We were learning the names of colours, and, when asked to point out various objects that were different colours in the classroom, one young fellow puts his hand to his chest, and pronounces, quite dramatically: "My heart.... is red...", after which I could only roll my eyes and ask him to sit down...
Furthermore, what has been interesting is some of the health perceptions here. One woman I had seen in clinic was very reluctant to have me examine her, as she was terribly anxious that I would find some terrible disease. It took her friends another day to convince her to come back to see me and she was apparently unable to sleep. Overall, she ultimately was simply constipated. The absolute and utter joy she had with that diagnosis was frankly, bizarre. She was kissing the translator and I, and announcing to the rest of the waiting room that I was a "wonderful, excellent doctor" (obviously, she doesn't really know what she's talking about - she clearly is delusional). However, it does speak to the fatalistic, fear-driven culture here - that they would rather not know, and not find out, something that could easily be prevented and cured, as it would be insha'allah to interfere otherwise.
The degree to which fatalism plays into decision-making and lifestyle is sad, actually, as is the ability to believe in two completely contradictory statements simultaneously. One such example was a magazine article that I was shown about 'how to deal with women in the workplace'. Of course, as women are clearly temptresses and unable to control their abilities to seduce men, they really should not be in the workplace to lead men astray. However, if it is insisted that a woman should be working, then what the men should each do is suckle at her breast twice daily for five days at the office - this apparently will strengthen a "family bond" between them, and then they will be like mother and son, and work together accordingly. HELLO?????? I know I've heard many idiotic things in my life, but certainly, this is one of the most brain-stupefying things I have ever heard about, particularly in the context that they want women to be fully covered - but just not in this case - instead, it is a good idea for women to be fully exposed in public, and not only that, but violated in public at the workplace. Drives me absolutely batty... it does, of course, speak to the general perception of woman as maternal virgin/woman as seductive whore imagery that has been plaguing women for centuries... oh wait, I thought I wasn't going to start on issues of sexuality and gender here...
Monday, November 12, 2007
Jordan VI
So, I just went out into one of the wadis and spent the night out in a "traditional" (though modified for tourists' tastes) Bedouin tent. It was in a wadi surrounded by massively huge sandstone mountains, which were incredibly beautiful. Again, not a local woman to be seen all day and all night. Ate lovely food over the fire, tried playing the oud (which is a traditional stringed instrument - very beautiful to listen to, unless I'm playing it - then, it's just ugly and sad), given the tabla to play instead (which is a djembe-type instrument), which worked much better, saw some camels wandering through the desert (how picture perfect - a caravan of camels traipsing along a sand dune), got a marriage proposal (what a big surprise), and smoked some sheesha (though, I learned I apparently don't know how to breathe properly, as I couldn't get the nargileh to work and somehow got the coals to burn out, which is the opposite of what it's supposed to do - that just figures; being told I don't know how to breathe...).
This brings up again the point of the dissertation I would write about sexuality here that completely baffles me, but I still won't. However, one of our stops was this huge 500m high sand dune that our guide wanted us to climb in order to admire the view (which, admittedly was quite breathtaking). Well, one of the girls, who runs marathons, clambered up OK, and the men wouldn't be eligible for "help" from the guide, so guess who needed help? Well, that would be, uh, me. Managed to get up about halfway, and wanted to take a breather, maybe some photos. Turn around and start climbing up again, and the guide comes up behind me, grabs my butt and starts pushing me up from behind. I'm, like, "Dude, that is totally OK, I don't need a bum-push up the dune, I'll get there in my own time"... This, combined with a marriage proposal, and getting literally leered at while wearing my baggy khakis, my head covered, and a T-shirt that is two sizes too big was just a little bit too much for me and my pseudo-feminist tendencies for one day...
This brings up again the point of the dissertation I would write about sexuality here that completely baffles me, but I still won't. However, one of our stops was this huge 500m high sand dune that our guide wanted us to climb in order to admire the view (which, admittedly was quite breathtaking). Well, one of the girls, who runs marathons, clambered up OK, and the men wouldn't be eligible for "help" from the guide, so guess who needed help? Well, that would be, uh, me. Managed to get up about halfway, and wanted to take a breather, maybe some photos. Turn around and start climbing up again, and the guide comes up behind me, grabs my butt and starts pushing me up from behind. I'm, like, "Dude, that is totally OK, I don't need a bum-push up the dune, I'll get there in my own time"... This, combined with a marriage proposal, and getting literally leered at while wearing my baggy khakis, my head covered, and a T-shirt that is two sizes too big was just a little bit too much for me and my pseudo-feminist tendencies for one day...
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Jordan V
I think one of the funny things about being abroad and meeting ex-pats are the gut-bustingly hilarious stories about things that they miss about home that they share - including missing Velveeta singles slices so bad (it being ridiculously expensive here, which is all the more odd considering it's NOT EVEN REALLY CHEESE - we're talking about $8 for those small packs with the 12 slices of cheese) that one friend here asked for one package of Velveeta cheese for her anniversary present (and is now considering asking for a package for Christmas :) )! Or about how one was missing a particular brand of scented candles so bad, that they brought a whole suitcase FULL back with them, and then had the customs agents individually smelling each lovely candle, with the scents of pumpkin pie, sugar cookie, french vanilla, etc etc wafting through customs at the Queen Alia airport... or how one person brought over a 10 lb ham in her carry on purse...
However, this is more for language learning today. Actually, I don't really think I know that much, but I am trying to use and learn Arabic as much as I can (I've already attended one Arabic class), and people around me are saying that I'm picking it up relatively quickly (so why can't I learn Korean or Spanish, then?).
So, I've already learned how to conjugate some verbs, how to ask for several different items, and some other useful phrases. But here's a small spattering of some phrases that I've been using over the past week or so:
shoukran: Thank you
Salaam alaykum. Kifkom: Peace be upon you. How are you doing today?
Biddi mayy: I would like some water please.
heloua tifil: what a beautiful baby boy.
la, ma biddi finjaan qafwi: no thank you, I would not like a cup of coffee.
Some of the other stuff I've learned is hard to transliterate into English without pronouncing it as well, and most of the other stuff is just random words cobbled together. I figure I've still got time to learn more as I go along...
However, this is more for language learning today. Actually, I don't really think I know that much, but I am trying to use and learn Arabic as much as I can (I've already attended one Arabic class), and people around me are saying that I'm picking it up relatively quickly (so why can't I learn Korean or Spanish, then?).
So, I've already learned how to conjugate some verbs, how to ask for several different items, and some other useful phrases. But here's a small spattering of some phrases that I've been using over the past week or so:
shoukran: Thank you
Salaam alaykum. Kifkom: Peace be upon you. How are you doing today?
Biddi mayy: I would like some water please.
heloua tifil: what a beautiful baby boy.
la, ma biddi finjaan qafwi: no thank you, I would not like a cup of coffee.
Some of the other stuff I've learned is hard to transliterate into English without pronouncing it as well, and most of the other stuff is just random words cobbled together. I figure I've still got time to learn more as I go along...
Friday, November 09, 2007
Jordan IV
It is currently Friday, and thus the "rest day" of the week out here; hence, there isn't much to do, which has been a blessing, as I actually woke up at 10am this morning, and now have some time to write before I'm off for the day.
I think the more I travel, the more I realize at how deficient I am in various areas of intelligence. Riding through this countryside, I really wish I was well versed in geology, botany, archeology and anthropology; I think these would all help me have a deeper appreciation of all that I'm seeing and touching and experiencing.
At any rate, this country is interesting in how it is divided. Some have told me that, as the formation of all these borders out here was decided by Europeans, and not by the people themselves, it (much like Africa) has led to various tensions and conflict over the years. If you look on a map, Jordan is shaped kind of like an upside-down "L". As has been explained to me, the northern region is a bit less conservative (which is a TOTALLY relative term), as they are more influenced by Syria (hence, why I say it's a TOTALLY relative term) and Lebanon in their attitudes and cultural understandings. The southern region is considerably more conservative, as a good portion of their influence arises from Saudi Arabia (hence, again, why I say this is a RELATIVE term).
I am currently in the southern end of the country. A woman described to me that ever since she moved here from Amman, she has felt that she hasn't really been accepted here, that she feels pressure to wear the hijab, and that she doesn't really belong, in comparison to living in the north. I am really hoping that this desire for a sense of place and belonging might actually be met by the people that I am working with, as I am sure that they can provide an answer to that desire!!
This also, of course, reflects more of attitudes within urban centres. As you may well imagine, rural areas always lag behind urban areas in terms of progressive thought and attitudes. The other day, I was in a small village, only about 10km out of the capital city, and it was like night and day. You'd think 10km hardly makes a difference (heck, you'd still be within Toronto city limits), but it does. By that point, we already had a lack of vehicles, many more beasts of burden, many more full-body coverings, etc. It actually didn't even have its own mosque, since there was already uniformity in thought, so there was no need for a house of worship and teaching. So, I suspect, whether north or south, this distinction between more liberal and more conservative values in rural areas is a moot point.
Furthermore, one of the things that make me wish I was a man at times is the liberty with which they can move through the world. Walking through the streets here, it is rare that you will see women; as far as you can tell, you'd think it was a country full of men. You truly do feel like an anomaly, as for every woman you might see in the street, there are about 40 or 50 men to balance her out - literally. So I might walk for blocks and blocks and not have any face time with a woman at all. Which makes it a bit disconcerting to walk through the streets at times.
I think the more I travel, the more I realize at how deficient I am in various areas of intelligence. Riding through this countryside, I really wish I was well versed in geology, botany, archeology and anthropology; I think these would all help me have a deeper appreciation of all that I'm seeing and touching and experiencing.
At any rate, this country is interesting in how it is divided. Some have told me that, as the formation of all these borders out here was decided by Europeans, and not by the people themselves, it (much like Africa) has led to various tensions and conflict over the years. If you look on a map, Jordan is shaped kind of like an upside-down "L". As has been explained to me, the northern region is a bit less conservative (which is a TOTALLY relative term), as they are more influenced by Syria (hence, why I say it's a TOTALLY relative term) and Lebanon in their attitudes and cultural understandings. The southern region is considerably more conservative, as a good portion of their influence arises from Saudi Arabia (hence, again, why I say this is a RELATIVE term).
I am currently in the southern end of the country. A woman described to me that ever since she moved here from Amman, she has felt that she hasn't really been accepted here, that she feels pressure to wear the hijab, and that she doesn't really belong, in comparison to living in the north. I am really hoping that this desire for a sense of place and belonging might actually be met by the people that I am working with, as I am sure that they can provide an answer to that desire!!
This also, of course, reflects more of attitudes within urban centres. As you may well imagine, rural areas always lag behind urban areas in terms of progressive thought and attitudes. The other day, I was in a small village, only about 10km out of the capital city, and it was like night and day. You'd think 10km hardly makes a difference (heck, you'd still be within Toronto city limits), but it does. By that point, we already had a lack of vehicles, many more beasts of burden, many more full-body coverings, etc. It actually didn't even have its own mosque, since there was already uniformity in thought, so there was no need for a house of worship and teaching. So, I suspect, whether north or south, this distinction between more liberal and more conservative values in rural areas is a moot point.
Furthermore, one of the things that make me wish I was a man at times is the liberty with which they can move through the world. Walking through the streets here, it is rare that you will see women; as far as you can tell, you'd think it was a country full of men. You truly do feel like an anomaly, as for every woman you might see in the street, there are about 40 or 50 men to balance her out - literally. So I might walk for blocks and blocks and not have any face time with a woman at all. Which makes it a bit disconcerting to walk through the streets at times.
Thursday, November 08, 2007
FFT
The idea that everybody else approaches the Bible with baggage and agendas and lenses and I don't is the ultimate in arrogance. To think that I can just read the Bible without reading any of my own culture or background or issues into it and come out with a "pure" or "exact" meaning is not only untrue, but it leads to a very destructive reading of the Bible that robs it of its life and energy.
- Ron Bell
- Ron Bell
Jordan III
There are a bunch of observations that I wanted to make, but I am not convinced that they would be coherent, one with the other, but we'll see how I make do:
I have never met so many Americans personally in my lifetime, I believe, as I have in the past few days. This is both SUPER, and not so great. I am greatly encouraged by seeing how plentiful they are, how willing they are to take part and doing what they are called to do. I totally love the hospitality and the size of the personalities of Americans - they are so big, their personalities come right over, invite you in, and give you a big hug hello! However (and this is TOTALLY NOT an observation based on people that I've met; rather, it's more from observing the dominant culture), I can begin to get a sense (right! How arrogant of me to say after one week that I can understand Middle East/Western tensions!) of why we in the West are so despised. Recognizing of how many economies out here are inextricably linked with that of the USA, how dependent they are on American investment, infrastructure, etc, how there is the love of the entrepreneurial spirit, but hate of the cultural values that come with that - I think there is a sense of, kind of like Gollum, a love-hate relationship that ultimately eats at and consumes the very one that wants what it cannot have... if that makes any sense... probably not...
I think this could lead into the very warped (not that we don't have our own neuroses in the West) views of sexuality and women, but that would get too complex, so instead I'll go onto another ethnic observation: For some reason, Chinese women are generally perceived here to be prostitutes. I suspect, sadly, that this is because many Chinese women are trafficked here for massage parlours and brothels. This has, of course, been a bit problematic for me. I have to articulate quite clearly that I am Canadian, I am NOT Chinese, I am of Korean heritage, I am NOT Chinese. It's helpful that I'm much taller and bigger than the average Asian female anyways, so I'm usually assumed to be Korean or Japanese anyways, which are ethnicities that are 'in the clear' (because both cultures are much less likely to traffic their own women).
I think that's all I'll write for now, as I have to go teach another English class (funny that! I had no idea what a gerund was until a few days ago!).
I have never met so many Americans personally in my lifetime, I believe, as I have in the past few days. This is both SUPER, and not so great. I am greatly encouraged by seeing how plentiful they are, how willing they are to take part and doing what they are called to do. I totally love the hospitality and the size of the personalities of Americans - they are so big, their personalities come right over, invite you in, and give you a big hug hello! However (and this is TOTALLY NOT an observation based on people that I've met; rather, it's more from observing the dominant culture), I can begin to get a sense (right! How arrogant of me to say after one week that I can understand Middle East/Western tensions!) of why we in the West are so despised. Recognizing of how many economies out here are inextricably linked with that of the USA, how dependent they are on American investment, infrastructure, etc, how there is the love of the entrepreneurial spirit, but hate of the cultural values that come with that - I think there is a sense of, kind of like Gollum, a love-hate relationship that ultimately eats at and consumes the very one that wants what it cannot have... if that makes any sense... probably not...
I think this could lead into the very warped (not that we don't have our own neuroses in the West) views of sexuality and women, but that would get too complex, so instead I'll go onto another ethnic observation: For some reason, Chinese women are generally perceived here to be prostitutes. I suspect, sadly, that this is because many Chinese women are trafficked here for massage parlours and brothels. This has, of course, been a bit problematic for me. I have to articulate quite clearly that I am Canadian, I am NOT Chinese, I am of Korean heritage, I am NOT Chinese. It's helpful that I'm much taller and bigger than the average Asian female anyways, so I'm usually assumed to be Korean or Japanese anyways, which are ethnicities that are 'in the clear' (because both cultures are much less likely to traffic their own women).
I think that's all I'll write for now, as I have to go teach another English class (funny that! I had no idea what a gerund was until a few days ago!).
Monday, November 05, 2007
Jordan II
I know I don't usually write this frequently when I'm away, but I figure I've got wireless internet for now, and likely, as this trip progresses (and/or internet coverage gets a bit more spotty), then the updates will be less frequent.
One thing I did want to share was some of the aural experience here. Certainly, there is the five times daily call to prayer that rings out throughout the city - technically, I believe they try to situate the mosques such that there is a relatively uniform coverage, so that pretty much everyone can hear the call, if you're listening for it. It's actually not terribly intrusive, except for the morning call, which is at about 4am. Luckily, because of the jetlag, I'm only hearing it and rolling back over in bed, which is a blessing.
The other one was hearing the ice cream truck jingle rolling through our neighbourhood. I asked someone what that was, as I couldn't believe that an ice cream truck would be roaming around a residential neighbourhood at 8am... I've since learned it's actually the propane truck, driving around, full of propane tanks (now is that an accident waiting to happen, or what?) calling people to come out and buy their daily propane needs... since then, I've heard it in all sorts of neighbourhoods at people's houses... only instead of having children run out with their loonies and toonies in hand, you see housewives coming out to get their propane ration for the day... apparently, the guy sitting in the back of the flatbed truck used to just play percussion on all these tanks, but I guess the potential danger of that changed them over to the ice cream tune...
Today, I actually was at a half-day clinic for Iraqi refugees, but mainly worked as a pharmacist, dispensing and doing inventory on medication, as I truly lack language skills (unfortunately, it is incredibly hard to make a real impact without heart language), though I did see some patients, and actually dealt with some interesting pathology, nonetheless. Furthermore, I also taught an ESL class, which is really funny, seeing as I've never taught ESL before. Luckily, the class was much more shatreen (smart) than I, so it ran relatively smoothly, I hope... It was certainly interesting in getting the Jordanian perspective on international politics, that's for sure...
One thing I did want to share was some of the aural experience here. Certainly, there is the five times daily call to prayer that rings out throughout the city - technically, I believe they try to situate the mosques such that there is a relatively uniform coverage, so that pretty much everyone can hear the call, if you're listening for it. It's actually not terribly intrusive, except for the morning call, which is at about 4am. Luckily, because of the jetlag, I'm only hearing it and rolling back over in bed, which is a blessing.
The other one was hearing the ice cream truck jingle rolling through our neighbourhood. I asked someone what that was, as I couldn't believe that an ice cream truck would be roaming around a residential neighbourhood at 8am... I've since learned it's actually the propane truck, driving around, full of propane tanks (now is that an accident waiting to happen, or what?) calling people to come out and buy their daily propane needs... since then, I've heard it in all sorts of neighbourhoods at people's houses... only instead of having children run out with their loonies and toonies in hand, you see housewives coming out to get their propane ration for the day... apparently, the guy sitting in the back of the flatbed truck used to just play percussion on all these tanks, but I guess the potential danger of that changed them over to the ice cream tune...
Today, I actually was at a half-day clinic for Iraqi refugees, but mainly worked as a pharmacist, dispensing and doing inventory on medication, as I truly lack language skills (unfortunately, it is incredibly hard to make a real impact without heart language), though I did see some patients, and actually dealt with some interesting pathology, nonetheless. Furthermore, I also taught an ESL class, which is really funny, seeing as I've never taught ESL before. Luckily, the class was much more shatreen (smart) than I, so it ran relatively smoothly, I hope... It was certainly interesting in getting the Jordanian perspective on international politics, that's for sure...
Sunday, November 04, 2007
Jordan I
So I spent my first day exploring the city of Amman, and I must say, how come nobody has ever told me about kinafeh before? It is possibly the tastiest dessert I've had in a long time - think baklava, but hot and fresh, with cheese - yummers! I'm going to try to look for it when I return... we ate it hot, straight off the street, with mint tea...
Amman is actually the ancient site where the Ammonites once were - in fact, I saw where Uriah the Hittite was allegedly sent to his death when fighting on behalf of King David. It is a city initially set upon seven hills, though, with the increasing urban sprawl, is up to about 20 hills or so now. The eastern portion of the city is where the Old City is found (which, interestingly enough, I found the souks not nearly as labyrinthine and confusing as in Morocco), and the further east you go, you end up further in Palestinian refugee camp territory. The western portion (which is where I am currently staying) is where the city is sprawling out to, so there are many new townhouse and apartment developments, the rise of the shopping mall, Starbucks and McDonalds... which brings up the interesting point at how "civilization" tends to always head west and my theories as to why that is... but I digress...
That being said, there are many Roman, Ummayad and Byzantine examples of archeology all over the place... I knew I'd see some here, but it seems very interesting to see old Byzantine churches and Roman amphitheatres in the middle of town. Saw several large mosques, several Roman structures, and the biggest flagpole in the world (flying, of course, the Jordanian flag).
Managed also to ride several taxis and a bus (sitting with women, of course) and ate falafel in an alleyway at one of the oldest falafel huts in the city.
The most exciting thing about today, however, was worshipping with the national church. Yes, there were a few Western songs, but most of it was beautifully Arab in flavour. Even MORE exciting than that was actually witnessing the beginnings of a missional movement within the national church... this is terribly exciting! Even if it's only a few small seeds, this is an exciting and promising development!! It thrilled my heart just to see it in its very infancy!
Amman is actually the ancient site where the Ammonites once were - in fact, I saw where Uriah the Hittite was allegedly sent to his death when fighting on behalf of King David. It is a city initially set upon seven hills, though, with the increasing urban sprawl, is up to about 20 hills or so now. The eastern portion of the city is where the Old City is found (which, interestingly enough, I found the souks not nearly as labyrinthine and confusing as in Morocco), and the further east you go, you end up further in Palestinian refugee camp territory. The western portion (which is where I am currently staying) is where the city is sprawling out to, so there are many new townhouse and apartment developments, the rise of the shopping mall, Starbucks and McDonalds... which brings up the interesting point at how "civilization" tends to always head west and my theories as to why that is... but I digress...
That being said, there are many Roman, Ummayad and Byzantine examples of archeology all over the place... I knew I'd see some here, but it seems very interesting to see old Byzantine churches and Roman amphitheatres in the middle of town. Saw several large mosques, several Roman structures, and the biggest flagpole in the world (flying, of course, the Jordanian flag).
Managed also to ride several taxis and a bus (sitting with women, of course) and ate falafel in an alleyway at one of the oldest falafel huts in the city.
The most exciting thing about today, however, was worshipping with the national church. Yes, there were a few Western songs, but most of it was beautifully Arab in flavour. Even MORE exciting than that was actually witnessing the beginnings of a missional movement within the national church... this is terribly exciting! Even if it's only a few small seeds, this is an exciting and promising development!! It thrilled my heart just to see it in its very infancy!
Saturday, November 03, 2007
London I
I know that technically, I'm not really 'here', as it was just a layover, but it was really odd: I got punched in the head twice while in the UK! I'm not entirely sure how, or why, but it is a bit perturbing when you get beaned twice in the same country... the first time, I was just sleeping in Heathrow, with my jacket covered my head, lying on some benches, and then something dropped on my head... by the time I got up, the perpetrator was gone! And then another man elbowed me in the head while he was trying to pick up his suitcase (just in terms of height, this doesn't make any sense, as my head was clearly much higher than his suitcase AND his elbow, so I TOTALLY don't understand how that happened... clearly, I am lacking in physics skills...)... maybe the British don't like me...
Irrespective, I've made it here safely, and haven't been able to make any observations yet, really, as it's 11pm here and quite dark... the adventures will soon begin...
Irrespective, I've made it here safely, and haven't been able to make any observations yet, really, as it's 11pm here and quite dark... the adventures will soon begin...
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